The Complete History of Ice Cream Cones
by: Ganna ElSorogy
Classic American food item, however, whose origins truly are linked to the 1904 world fair: The Ice Cream Cone.
People had been eating ice cream from various cone-like
containers for decades, they just didn’t eat the containers themselves.
Way back in 1807, Culinary historian Robin Weir claims that
the first pictorial evidence of an ice cream cone was “oddly spiral-shaped
utensil, containing ice cream”.
As ice cream grew in popularity in the 19th century, the roving vendors began selling ice cream in cups and containers including the cone-shaped glass.
Mrs. A.B. Marshall’s Cookery Book (1877) includes instructions for making
“Cornets with Cream”, cone-shaped vessels made of a sweet paste of blanched
almonds and flour, rolled around cornet molds, baked and filled with sweetened
vanilla-flavored whipped cream. These cornets are also filled with ice cream or
water ice. Future innovators were inspired by the creative instructions of Mrs.
Marshall’s
The following year, Valvona collaborated with Frank Marchiony, an Italian immigrant in New York, to found the Valvona-Marchiony Company, which produced the biscuit cups and the ice cream sold in them. Valvona founded the firm’s factory in the UK, while Marchiony ran the American operations from the lower East side of Manhattan and the in Brooklyn as trade grew.
By 1904, Marchiony had advanced from a solo street cart to “two big wafer and ice cram factories” operation. According to a newspaper profile at this time, said that he also had launched 200 ice cream carts. Although these carts were too famous all over Manhattan, they had plenty of competition on the streets. Including in competition, Marchiony’s cousin, Italo Marchiony, who worked for the Valvona-Marchiony Company, but by 1903, he had established a rival ice cream firm.
Italo`s innovation is that its design forms biscuit pastes
with ‘‘special and unusual shapes” that were previously impossible due to the
delicacy of the formed substance and the difficulty of forming and extracting
it from the mould. Unlike Valvona's two-part form, which had a hinged top and
bottom that closed like a bivalve, Italo's Marchiony device consisted of his
three-part form.
And that’s two things stood on the eve of the St. Louis
World’s Fair. People were eating ice cream from containers, but nothing that
anyone today would consider an ice cream cone.